A more sustainable future

While the conversation about sustainability goes on, the cosmetic industry goes way beyond just packaging and includes the whole production process from sourcing to formula creation. More and more cosmetic manufacturers are reformulating their products and replacing petrochemical derived ingredients by renewable alternatives as the growing demand for clean and natural beauty is expected to increase drastically in the coming years.

Challenging world for a formulator

However, it is a challenge for a formulator to reformulate without compromising on consumer’s experience. Formulators need to search for alternatives with the same functionality, efficacy and skin feeling. Case in point; the silicones. Silicones are petrochemical derived ingredients and widely used in all kinds of applications. Due to their non-biodegradable profile, build up on hair and skin and bad image perceived by consumers, cosmetic brands are excluding these ingredients in their products.  

Types of silicones

There are two types of silicones, the linear and cyclic silicones. There is also a second way of categorizing silicones, by their viscosity or sensory profile. More precisely, the low viscous or volatile silicones and the high viscous or non-volatile silicones. 

Low viscous silicones are being characterized by their silky, soft and non-greasy skin feelingfast spreading property and drying effect. These types of silicones have the advantage to improve spreadability of other key ingredients and actives in a formulation. Moreover, they are multifunctional and used in several applications due to their versatile profile. The most known ones in this category are dimethicones (viscosity of 5 mPa.swhich is a linear silicone compound, and cyclopentasiloxane which is a cyclic silicone compound. The latter one is often referred to as D5. In hair care application, the low viscous silicones are being used as conditioning agents and ensure smooth and soft hair.  

The second type of silicones are the high viscous or non-volatile silicones. Most commonly used is dimethicone with higher molecular weight. These dimethicones are mainly used in hair care products. They have the ability to lock in water and prevent wash-out of hair dyes. Secondly, the high viscous silicones are used as emollient with skin moisturizing properties in several creams and lotions.  

Do you want more information about this topic? Please contact our Health and Beauty team: HealthAndBeauty@OLEON.com 

Silicone alternatives

In the recent years, green or natural silicones alternatives have been launched on the marketOleon itself has two products in its portfolio which are excellent alternatives to D5 and dimethicone (5 mPa.s): Jolee 7750 (INCI: Isoamyl laurate) and Jolee 7202 (INCI: Propylene glycol diheptanoate). These Jolee products are readily biodegradable and based on renewable raw materials. The natural origin index (according to ISO 16128) is 1.  

Jolee 7750 and Jolee 7202 have in common that they are suitable for various applications such as skin care, color care and hair care. Formulators can incorporate these emollients into creams, lotions or even balms.  Due to their detangling properties, these silicone-like products are ideal to use in conditioner formulations as well.  

Click on the products for more information:

Jolee 7702

Jolee 7750